October 13 La Mandrie di San Pablo near Assisi

After fifteen minutes on a winding mountainside taxi drive we arrived at La Mandrie. Since it was Sunday, the host advised us to reserve a table because the restaurant would be full for lunch. An Italian sort of farm-to-table operation, we had chosen this place for a two day rest and to enjoy some rustic Umbrian food. Nestled in an inholding in a park, the owners resurrected a thousand year old olive farm and now produce world class oil from 8,000 trees. Their sheep, cows and pigs graze in the orchards. They make cheese, prosciutto and salami. They bake their bread and create their pasta from their own wheat, and serve fruit, vegetables and herbs from their own garden. Their own honey sweetens the desserts.

At one o’clock the cute English speaking waiter seated us at a small table in the middle of the outdoor seating area. Sunlight dappled through the grape arbor above. I looked past other diners at a sweeping view from 600 meters above the green valley floor.

Soon the veranda and indoor dining room filled with beautifully dressed Italian families. I imagined that they had just returned from mass, but more likely they were just enjoying a special Sunday lunch together. At least twenty people sat around an L-shaped table to my right. I noticed at least three generations; no black clad nonnas though. The older ladies wore stylish silk blouses, chic hairdos and gold jewelry. The well behaved children and teenagers seemed to be having fun. One older guy looked dashing with a soft blue scarf draped artfully around his neck.

Talk and laughter filled the dining area. I heard the occasional honk of a goose and cackle of a chicken, and even a donkey braying! People gestured and moved freely and affectionately around the tables. Mike and I had plenty to talk about but I felt a little lonely amidst all these families, and wished I knew a little more Italian.

Black clad waiters rushed around keeping the courses coming. The Italian menu includes at least four courses: antipasto, first plate (pasta), second plate (protein) and dessert. Drinks, salads, vegetables, cheese plate, and after dinner coffee and liqueur might also be offered. Maybe it was gauche but in our case we just ordered wine, pasta (ravioli in white truffle sauce for Mike and gnocchi with chanterelle mushrooms for me) and ricotta based desserts (our protein.)

I couldn’t help but look at what others were eating. A young couple sat down at the table next to us. We smiled and nodded, unable to say much to each other. They started with a large plate of cheese, olives and honey and a plate piled with charcuterie. They asked for more bread. Noting how slender they were, I figured they were doing the truncated version of lunch like us. However, after an hour of slowly working through their appetizers with knives and forks, I was surprised to see the waiter deliver a full plate of pasta to each of them. They ate that quickly, in time for a platter of lamb chops and a pile of roasted potatoes studded with rosemary.

By this time, two hours had passed. We finished our coffee and prepared to go. I wondered what more the young people could possibly eat. Stuffed, we headed out for a little walk, knowing we had four more meals to go at La Mandrie! I was already thinking about lamb chops for dinner.

PS. I did have grilled lamb for dinner (8 pm). It was chewy and rich with salt, oil and herbs, and accompanied by a plate of roasted vegetables.