October 11 Tuscany

Bagno Vignoni is a tiny hill village. Internet says Population: 30. We spent the night in a stone villa constructed in the 1300s, beautifully updated as a B&B.

The purpose of staying here was the bagnos, hot spring baths in use since pre-Roman times.

We paid admission to enter a private spa. We also had to purchase bathing caps. The dressing rooms were state of the art, though I was surprised when a man walked right into the ladies’ changing room to discuss something with his wife.

The hot baths were in a lush garden with chaise longues for easily a couple hundred people. Hot water poured into a stone and tile pool with stairs and railings for easy entry. The water seemed jade green and was very hot. Water from this area was diverted into a very large “cool” pool where the water was milky green. The place was almost empty and very luxurious, a perfect start to our Tuscan day.

Capella de la Madonna di Vitaleta We started our day’s walk at the “most photographed church in Tuscany,” a tiny chapel on a hill.

From there we followed a well travelled path through fields and olive orchards. This was the Tuscan landscape that takes your breath away: miles of randomly rolling hills in every direction, in greens, golds, every shade of brown and even black. All against a deep blue sky and punctuated with the occasional tower or cypress tree.

We rested in a olive orchard. I picked a couple of mottled green to black olives. I knew better than to just bite in, but I squeezed and out came greenish, pulpy, raw olive oil! It tasted green and a little bitter so I rubbed it on my face.

Pienza is a larger hill town surrounded by a wall. As you near the town you come to a church built in the early 8th Century. The inside was bare with little decoration. I thought of people worshipping here for 1,300 years, and lit a candle.

Supper was at a wine tasting bar. We tried three reds and some Tuscan meat and sheep cheese.

When I started this blog I promised myself to focus on one thing a day. I broke my promise because there was just too much in one perfect Tuscan day.