November 30 Copenhagen. København

Today was our big day to visit Tivoli Gardens, our original objective for our stay in Copenhagen. Mary chose our hotel, the Palace, because it’s almost across the street from Tivoli. We are right in the middle of the old city, next door to the Rødhusplasen (city hall). The old hotel has modern remodel inside; our room is small, kind of zen but with a beautiful high end bathroom and an ornate metal chandelier. My favorite features are the outstanding breakfast included and the chimes from the bell tower on the Rathaus every 15 minutes between 8 am and midnight.

Mary’s lovely friend Emma came over from Oslo to join us. We walked across Hans Christian Andersen Ave to the gates of Tivoli for the 11 o’clock opening. One of the original pleasure gardens in the world, Tivoli is small, bordered by an iron fence over which you can see modern buildings and that bell tower. No lines at all for the rides; low level roller coasters and children’s rides. Mary and Emma rode the Chinese junks.

Tivoli was all out for Christmas. Artificial snow, twinkly lights, quiet music, little stores with Christmas items and seasonal food. It was low key and easy, and once it got dark, more people showed up and it felt really festive. We were charmed by the slow pace and innocent, old fashioned feel, and a traditional smørrebrød (open sandwich) lunch. It was fun to imagine families coming here as long ago as the 1840s.

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