We left the Rhine today and entered the smaller Main (pronounced mine) River this morning. The Main is calmer, narrower and more like a canal because of all the locks. The dimensions of these river cruise boats are determined by the size of the locks, which are only twelve meters wide. Our cruise ship seems to fit in like a glove. We know we are in a lock when the engine stops and there’s a slight bumping, like a small earthquake. Standing outside this morning, I watched the ship slowly rise several meters within the lock. Crew members jumped around untying ropes and we were off. Passing through a lock is certainly less romantic than crossing the Lorelei’s bend, but I enjoy this passage. The Main is a major shipping route for Germany, and the locks make it possible.

Our excursion today was to the Engleberg Abbey, high above Miltenberg. Unlike the pilgrims who climbed 638 steps on their bloody knees, we made it up the hill in quiet electric motor coaches that skillfully navigated narrow streets and hairpin turns. We briefly toured the church and vineyards but the main event was beer tasting.

Lovely ladies served us half liters of dark beer, cheese, sausage and pumpernickel bread, all made by the monks. I enjoyed the beer but the thought of the bus ride back to the ship made me anxious. One of the lovely servers, Monica, led me through back halls and the kitchen to the staff bathroom. She was proud of her dirndl and let me take her picture.
