October 22 Amsterdam

We are looking out the window of our third floor B&B window at the Herengracht Canal. Tonight little lights outline the curved bridges, silent low boats cruise by and the ripples reflect lights from the house windows. The old fashioned street lamps appear to be lit by gas. Occasionally people walk by singing or in quiet conversation.

Amsterdam seems to be the most livable city we’ve visited. People who are obviously not tourists are out and about. Even though it’s cooler and kind of grey, outdoor cafes are busy. Streetcars and some cars ply the large streets but most people appear to walk or ride bicycles.

I had heard that the bike riders were crazy here, but I think just the opposite. Bikes are parked everywhere. Thousands of them. Every street seems to have a dedicated bike lane. The bridges have little ramps next to the steps for the bikes.

We were in the street at rush hour, and we did see the packs of riders heading home. But the pace is stately. No one is racing. In fact, I have not seen what we used to call racing bikes. These Amsterdam bikes are like Cadillac versions of our old Schwinns. Most are big and black. No gears. Very high handlebars so the riders sit tall and erect. Modifications include baskets, baby and toddler carriers and delivery units. I saw a DHL bike today. They are quiet; I don’t think I heard a bell or an “on your left” all day. So the flow of movement was calm and easy, in this city of no hills. We didn’t see a single rider wearing a helmet. But riders are safe from cars here, and maybe a bike helmet to an Amsterdammer would be as weird as a “walking helmet” would be to us.

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We spent our afternoon in the Van Gogh Museum, a four story modern building with focus on a deep look at Van Gogh’s life and work.

The museum had a few greatest hits (Sunflowers, The Potato Eaters) but I loved the sketches and surprises.

Several of Vincent’s early paintings were amateurish, such as a picture of his pastor father’s church he painted as a gift for his mother when she was ill. He copied Japanese prints, and used stuffed birds as models. A special exhibit showed how Vincent and other great painters copied Millet’s studies of peasants. (I was particularly moved by a drawing in John Singer Sargent’s sketchbook of Noonday Rest from Work.)

The museum included personal artifacts. Mike was moved by Vincent’s original letters to his brother Theo. Some of the paintings were displayed so you could see both sides of the boards Vincent used for canvas. A palette and some paint tubes were not nearly as poignant to me as this box of yarn Vincent used to test color combinations.